This blog has been badly neglected for a couple of years now, but since I did managed to make a single post last year, I didn't want to let this year go by without posting at least one entry. Of course there are a wealth of topics I could go on and on about, whether it's the US finally voting out the worst president in its history (and him promptly making an even further disgrace of himself by refusing to accept the results), numerous events around the world, developments in space exploration, the more than three dozen books I've read since I last wrote on that topic, and more, I decided to make it easy on myself and post something that I'd already written more than half of: an account of a trip we took to New Zealand in March and how the growing coronavirus pandemic affected it. While we, like the vast majority of people around the world, won't be able to make any foreign trips for at least a few more months yet (at least here in Taiwan domestic travel is no problem), our last one was memorable enough to last us for some time yet.
A
Trip to New Zealand as the Fight Against the Coronavirus Was Ramping
Up
In March, we went on a previously planned vacation
to New Zealand. Though the coronavirus situation globally worldwide
was worsening, it didn’t even occur to us to cancel our trip. My
wife had bought the tickets (non-refundable, of course) the previous
December as a family treat, and for us it was a big expense, the type
we can only afford every couple of years. Once the epidemic hit, our
main worry was that travel restrictions would prevent us from going.
We weren’t particularly worried about the virus itself. Taiwan had
only about 50 cases (out of a population of 23 million), despite well
over a month and a half having passed since the first case was
reported in late January, and there were only a handful of confirmed
cases in New Zealand at the time we departed (I think it was eight on
the day we departed). Without any community spread to speak of in
either country and a direct flight between them, the chances of
encountering anyone with the virus seemed extremely low, though we
would have to take a little extra care in the airports, since that
was the one place we were likely to encounter travelers from places
where the virus was more widespread.
As it happened, the airports weren’t a big issue
either, since a lot of flights had already been cancelled, and with a
lot fewer people around, social distancing wasn’t too difficult,
except on the flight itself (which of course mainly held people from
Taiwan, who were very unlikely to have the virus). But we had to
leave a day later than planned, because our original flight had been
cancelled, though the airline put us on the next day’s flight
without charge. Then on the way to the airport, we read that New
Zealand had just announced that incoming travelers from all but a
handful of countries would be required to self-isolate for 14 days on
arrival. However, the policy would only go into force at midnight on
the night after our arrival, meaning it didn’t apply to us. When we
got to Auckland, everything seemed to be business as usual.
Everything was open, people were out and about, and we only saw a
single person (possibly a tourist) wearing a mask. It looked like our
vacation could proceed as planned.
We set off to some of the major tourist spots, and
for most of the trip, things were fairly normal. The coronavirus did
come up a lot in conversation. On a day tour from Rotorua to the
Waitomo Caves and the Hobbiton movie set, our driver and a young
British couple and I started discussing the situation. The British
couple had been in the country for some time, but they now weren’t
sure when they’d be leaving, as the next stage on their journey
through that part of the world was Indonesia, which their government
was advising against visiting. The driver said their company had no
bookings for the coming weeks, and she feared she was going to be
laid off. Another driver who we hired to take us from Turangi (where
the long-distance bus stopped) into the Tongariro National
Park a day or two later also said there were a lot of cancellations,
though the national park itself seemed to have a fair number of
visitors. While we were in the national park, we saw on the local
news that Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern had announced that
non-residents would be banned from entering the country beginning
from midnight that night, though people on planes that were already
in the air would be allowed in even if they landed after midnight. We
also learned that Taiwan was now requiring most incoming travelers to
self-quarantine for 14 days after arrival, a restriction that would
apply to us. In both countries, there’d been a fairly sharp uptick
in cases, though they nearly all involved incoming travelers, not
community spread.
The next day we arrived in Wellington. Life still
seemed to be going on mostly as normal, though two women sitting
behind me on the bus were discussing the coronavirus situation. We
stayed in a hotel that dated back to the 19th century (Queen
Elizabeth apparently stayed there in the 1960s). The woman at the
hotel reception counter was initially hesitant about letting us check
in, since she thought we were supposed to be self isolating (they had
a sign saying that anyone arriving after the 15th was
supposed to self-isolate; on seeing our March 15 entry stamps, she
apparently forgot about the “after”), but she relented, though
she asked us to avoid the common room. The next day we found
that all the museums were closed indefinitely, though when we walked
to the waterfront and hiked up to the Mt. Victoria lookout there were
plenty of people in both places. On our second full day, we started
to see a few more people with masks (though still a small minority),
and when we ate in at a restaurant in the evening we had to write
down our contact information. I also noticed a few people making an
extra effort not to touch things, for example using their elbow to
press the pedestrian crossing button at intersections (something I
started doing myself). It was clear things were getting a bit more
tense.
The next day (March 23) we flew from Wellington
back to Auckland. We had only booked the tickets right after arriving
in Wellington, and the plane wasn’t full. As it turned out, this
was our second lucky break as far as timing went, after just
gotten in ahead of the self-isolation requirement. On arrival at the
Auckland airport’s domestic terminal, we got a round trip ticket on
the airport bus, figuring that we’d be coming back in just a few
days (as it turned out, we should have just gotten a one-way ticket
into the city). As the bus passed the international terminal, we saw
that it was packed with people; apparently foreign travelers were
already trying to get out while they could (we later heard that the
airport ended up limiting entry to people who had tickets for flights
leaving in the next five hours).
The streets of Auckland were already noticeably
different from the way they had been just a week earlier. Quite a few
people were wearing masks, though still a minority, and some places
were closed. My wife had booked a short-stay apartment, which was
quite nice while still being only a little more expensive than the
backpacker hostel we’d stayed at previously. Most importantly, it
had a fully equipped kitchen, which turned out quite handy. But for
lunch we went to a nearby Nando’s (a South Africa-based chain
restaurant). This turned out to be our last meal in a restaurant for
the trip. My main goal for the last two days was to shop for
local music (I’d already bought some in Wellington) and check
out the secondhand bookstores. The record store we visited first was
open (and had a lot of good stuff), though the bookstore up the road a ways from it turned out
to be closed.
It was probably only upon returning to our
apartment that we heard the news. Covid-19 cases had continued to
creep up over the past few days, and they had just passed 100. In
addition, two of the cases were suspected to involve community
spread. This prompted the prime minister to announce that the country
was immediately entering level 3 on their newly instituted alert
system, and would be entering level 4 — a complete lockdown — at
11:59 on March 25. Realizing that we could expect even more
restaurants to be closing down, we decided to go buy several meals
worth of food at a supermarket. We had seen stories about panic
buying at supermarkets, so we weren’t too surprised to see that
they were only letting people into the store in batches, and that
there were signs stating that for most items you could only buy two.
But while there were certainly some bare shelves, there was also a
fair amount of food available, and we were able to get some frozen
pasta, bread, fruit, and other items. But rather than immediately
eating our new supplies, for dinner I went out for takeout pizza,
though notably some restaurants were already completely shut down.
The next day, we went back to the record store
we’d visited and had take out from a nearby Subway, chatting
briefly with the ethnic Indian couple who ran it about the virus
situation. In the afternoon, we decided to have a last bit of
touristy adventure. We went down to the port and caught a ferry
across to Devonport, a pleasant little suburb of Auckland. There was
a used bookstore there that was still open, and we browsed there for
awhile (I bought a few books, including a couple I’d been searching
for) and took a walk along the waterside before catching a ferry back
to central Auckland. We had noticed that while most of the fast food
places and some other restaurants were still open, everything was now
takeout only. The streets were also even less crowded then they had
been a day earlier, though they weren’t quite deserted. We were
able to do a little bit of shopping at the stores that were still
open; I bought a few new CDs at an electronics store.
We spent March 25, our last full day in Auckland,
walking about the central city. There were still people on the
streets, but almost all the stores and restaurants were closed,
including all the fast food places. I did stop in one of the few
restaurants that was still open for take out for a milkshake, but we
ate our meals at our apartment, using up the food we’d gotten at
the supermarket previously. We spent some time in a park not far away
from the apartment and we checked out the local buildings; I was
impressed to note that there were quite a few old buildings in
everyday use, such as one with 1909 carved on the lintel that had a
pharmacy on the first (or as they would say ground) floor. But while
it was a pleasant day and there were still people around, the whole
atmosphere was strange and slightly tense due to all the closed shops
and knowledge of the impending lockdown.
Through these last few days, we had of course been
keeping an eye on our flight, but fortunately it was one of the few
that hadn’t been canceled. And to say that it was fortunate is an
understatement, as after March 31, there would be no flights to
Taiwan (or many other places) at all. But there was still the matter
of getting to the airport in order to catch the flight. As I
mentioned earlier, we’d bought round-trip tickets on the airport
bus when we’d arrived on the flight from Wellington, but when we
first heard that the lockdown would be starting at midnight the night
before (our flight was on the morning of March 26), I became worried
about whether the buses would be running. On the 24th,
we’d stopped by the airport bus ticket office in central Auckland
to check, and it turned out I’d been right to worry; the airport
bus wouldn’t be operating during the lockdown. So how where we to
get to the airport? The fact that our flight was leaving as scheduled
wouldn’t do us any good if we couldn’t catch it.
Luckily, we found out that there was also a
shuttle service to the airport, and that was still going to be
running. So early on the 26th, we waited for the shuttle
bus (a van, actually) outside the apartment building. It came on
time, and we rode with a few other travelers out to the airport
through quiet streets. Admittedly, since it was only just getting
light (I forget the exact time, but it was probably before 7), it was
kind of hard to tell how different things were under lockdown. The
difference was more obvious once we got to the airport itself.
At the airport, things were still pretty subdued,
except at the few operating check-in counters. These were a small
hive of activity in an otherwise empty departure hall. A guy from one
young family was desperately arguing with the airline staff, but I
didn’t hear enough to be able to tell what their situation was. The
rest of us got checked in smoothly enough, and after getting through
the passport and security checks we had an hour or more before
boarding time in what was an almost empty airport. Every shop and
restaurant was closed, and the departure board was filled with
canceled flights. There was a flight to Tokyo leaving some time
before ours, but that was the only other flight anywhere near our
departure time that was still going. So the only people we saw
hanging around in the empty airport besides those who would be on our
flight were some from that one. One consolation was that at least
until we got to the gate, social distancing wasn’t a problem.
After hanging around in a mostly empty airport for
an hour, the boarding gate was a study in contrasts, even if many of
the people we saw in both places were the same. At the gate, everyone
was crowded together, but not only was practically everyone wearing
masks, some were wearing two, and a few people were wearing things
that looked almost like hazmat suits. Frankly, I thought this was
overdoing it a bit, as even at this point New Zealand had only around
200 cases, and the odds that any of us actually had the virus were
pretty small. Still, I probably shouldn’t fault people for erring
on the side of caution – though many of them undercut their own
efforts to a degree when the plane finally landed at Taoyuan
International Airport in Taiwan, as they crammed together in the
aisle waiting to get off, without any effort at social distancing.
Now we were safely back in Taiwan, but our
adventure wasn’t entirely over yet. Like all other arrivals in
Taiwan, including everyone else on our flight (well, except for three
people who were stuck at the airport for a day, since they had
intended to transfer on to other destinations, something Taiwan was
no longer allowing; eventually they were allowed to do it anyway,
though the airline was fined for letting them on in the first place),
we now had to go into quarantine for 14 days. Fortunately, we could
to this at home. We got into our designated taxi after being sprayed
with disinfectant and were taken straight to our building. Once back
in our apartment, we had to remain there for the next two weeks, and
family and friends who brought us food had to leave it outside our
door for us to take in after they’d left.
The quarantine caused a few complications – I
had to record a couple of my radio shows on my computer and I had to
reschedule a class I’d been supposed to teach on the very last day
of the quarantine – but for the most part it wasn’t too bad. Of
course back in New Zealand, people had to endure a much longer period
of being stuck at home, though they were not completely banned from
going outside, as long as they stayed away from others. The long
lockdown proved worthwhile, of course, as New Zealand eventually
managed to bring the virus under control and eliminate local
transmission. As for Taiwan, despite a relative surge in cases during
the time we’d been in New Zealand and then in quarantine, with
measures like the quarantine we and other arrivals from abroad went
through, it remained relatively free of the virus without having to
enter any kind of lockdown. Even at the time I’m finishing this off
at the end of the year, Taiwan has only had about 800 cases total,
with seven deaths, even fewer than New Zealand, despite a much larger
population. The only certain case of local transmission in Taiwan
since April occurred in late December. So as it happens, what was
true at the time we went to New Zealand is even more true now: Taiwan
and New Zealand are probably the best places in the world to be as
far as the pandemic is concerned.
Nevertheless, as great as New Zealand was and
still is, we were very fortunate in that we happened to get out just
as the lockdown started. Who knows what we would have done if we’d
actually been stuck there with no way of getting back home? But all’s
well that ends well, and we look forward to visiting New Zealand
again someday – but we hope next time it won’t be in the midst of
a global pandemic.